Cities of many churches, steps and small towels!

TRAVELS IN EASTERN EUROPE
Together with Riana Walsh (an old friend from my Zimbabwe days), I took a two-week trip around Eastern Europe in June/July 2007. Below is a travellogue of our two week trip that took us through Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Poland. Originally we were hoping to fit in Hungary and Croatia, but it just wasn't feasible in the time scale, so we had to settle for four countries. Bummer! Just as well as we were pretty knackered by the end of it!

DAY ONE

Arrive in Prague from East Midlands in the darkest hour. Riana has efficiently looked up the directions on how to get to our hotel that we thought it would be a piece of cake.

Not when one gets on a bus with no ticket! Fortunately we didn't get fined and we managed to get a free ride to the first stop. This is when the confusion started. Well perhaps it would have helped if I wasn't following a guide book published in 1997!

(NOTE to self: It is not always clever to buy cheap books from charity shops!) We managed to travel TWICE on the tram in the wrong direction before figuring out how they worked!

Anyway we finally reached our hotel after being helped out by one over-friendly local who was trying to convince us that he knew of the cheapest taxi driver in Prague. I think he disappeared into the darkness at the point when we admitted that we weren't planning on taking any taxis. Why when the public transport is so easy to use! HA HA! Pleased to walk into a clean, spacious, quiet and extremely reasonable room, hang on whats the catch here??? The towels are the size of tea towels! 'Oh but look', says Riana, 'there's a sign in the bathroom saying if you need extra towels they are available for purchase at reception'. So Ang eagerly scurries down to enquire, only to find out that for 20 Korona you are issued with yet....another tea towel! Alright for some, but not exactly adequate as you can see from pic!

DAY TWO

We discover that neither of us has a great sense of direction. Took a tram to Hradcanska to visit the castle and walked about 2 miles downhill instead of uphill! Fortunately plenty of people around who spoke reasonable English. Proceeded to spend over four hours in glorious sunshine visiting the gardens, Old Royal Palace, Basilica of St George and St Vitus's Cathedral. After climbing 287 steps, witnessed the most stunning view of Prague's old town which overlooks the famous Charles Bridge from the tower of the cathedral. After a step downhill walk, we arrived at the Jewish quarter where we had lunch at a 'Greek' restaurant (due to my guide book foe par, the chosen restaurant was no longer in existence!). We then visited the Jewish cemetery and various synagogues. Had a beautiful walk back along Charles Bridge browsing all the artist's stalls.
DAY THREE

Riana was feeling poorly so I set off for the central station to get our train tickets for Cesky Krumlov. After much discussion with different cashiers I managed to get the tickets with a break down of what station changes we had to make. Took the metro over to the Jewish quarter hoping to see St Agnes Convent only to discover that it was closed on Sundays (I ask you!), so went to see the Old/New synagogue which was not nearly as impressive as those seen the day before. Walked over to the old town square, stopping at Church of St Nicholas with an extremely impressive metal chandelier. Visited an exhibition of Alphonse Mucha & Salvador Dali artwork. Very very impressed, a lot of pieces that I hadn't seen at previous exhibits in London.

Met Riana (feeling better now) for lunch, then spilt and climbed, yes MORE steps, the tower of the old city hall. Another amazing panoramic view above the 'replica' astronomical clock. Then embarked on two-hour boat trip along the Vltava which would have been more enjoyable if there was some commentary, but at least time to chill out, enjoy the sun and read The No 1 Ladies Detective Agency Series 3! Crossed over Charles Bridge again into the Little Quarter to discover.....more churches! Church of St Nicholas II (not sure why they have two with the same name, perhaps one of you could enlighten me?), Church of St Thomas & St Joseph. The latter being the top church of the day! Ended with a delicious meal of beef goulash at a very rustic bohemian restaurant.

DAY FOUR

Took the tram directly to the main station and located the train to Krumlov no problemo. Problems came later when we discovered that we had to change to a rail/bus replacement service. Followed a kind old man in blue shirt who spoke 'a little' English to a convoy of buses waiting for us outside the station. The bus was something out of Zimbabwe's Tenda bus company, but without the goats and chickens on the roof thank goodness! From there it was a one hour journey before we got back on the train at Cesky Borjorvice and the last leg of the journey to the most beautiful medieval town I have seen since visiting Tallin back in 2003. Arrived at the B&B around lunch time, dumped our bags in our clean and spacious room with, not one but TWO small towels, both the texture of a bath mat! Had lunch at the 'Two Mary's' restaurant recommended by the hotel proprietor which was turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. Walked along the cobbled streets of the town photographing the many intricate ironwork signs that projected out from the buildings. Took a tour of the castle with an English translator with an extremely hard to decode, monotone voice. Beautiful gardens with a maze and revolving theatre where they were in the middle of rehearsing for a production of the Sound of Music. Back to the B&B for an early night after a meal at an organic restaurant.

DAY FIVE

Ang is up early eager to climb, yes MORE steps (162 to be precise) to the top of the bell tower of the castle. Quick tour of marionette museum and purchase of 'lucky fish' at one of the many ceramic shops. Shared a daily shuttle bus which took us over the Austrian border to Linz with a couple of Americans and an Aussi who had been travelling for 2 months round Europe. Gained a few useful tips for our onward journey.

Passed the most exquisite landscape scenery, just what I had pictured in my mind of Austria. Reminded me a lot of the winding road going up to Troutbeck (for those of you who have visited Nyanga). Also very lush, much like the Nyanga-Muture road with stunning houses tucked away in the middle of the forests. Arrived in Linz bang on time for lunch in the town square, where we checked out the tourist info and waited for Suzanne (sister of Pete who lives in UK) to meet us.Got settled into our best accommodation yet with large AND medium sized towels! Cooked diner & took a drive into the hills where we picked fresh blueberries in the bed of the forest. So different from the ones you get here; much smaller and juicier - yum yum!

DAY SIX

Early start (why waste time sleeping??) and caught a train to Salzburg arriving in time for an authentic Vienna Schnitzel. (Apparently Austrians never eat Vienna Schnitzel in Vienna!) After enquiring at the tourist info, decided to take the Mozart city tour while Riana visited the Mozart museums. Was absolutely fascinated by the shops selling millions of decorative eggs to be given as gifts to family at Xmas and Easter. At 12 Euros a pop and no inners, its was sheer daylight robbery! Sorry Diana you are not getting one for your Xmas tree this year! After finishing the city tour, took the funicular (scary diagonal lift, but at least no steps here) up to the castle fort and grounds where I gaped at more stunning views of the city with pristine houses dotted along the river, (no red roof tops, but still plenty of green church spires as in Prague). Not much time for anything else so will definitely have to go back for another visit, perhaps in winter when its all Christmassy.
DAY SEVEN

A more respectable start to the day, a breakfast of yogurt and fresh blueberries picked at dawn by our amazing host, Suzanne. Took a bus out to Mauthausen concentration camp. Walked a 2km trek uphill to visit the memorial where the original camp barracks had recently been damaged by storm Kerril in January, but most was in tact including the dreaded gas chambers and crematorium. All surrounded by a 3mt high stone wall with electric wire at the top. Hauntingly reminded me of the hundreds of meters of barbed wire we had on our perimeter fence in Nyanga to keep the baboons out. Most shocking of all was the mortuary where they dissected the bodies for gold teeth etc. In the large exhibition rooms however, everything was in German unfortunately so we could only semi-read the photographic displays. But we did get to see a 1 hour documentary which described everything in detail and had chronicles of camp survivors, very moving! Spent the afternoon in Linz wondering round the city, before meeting up with friends of Brett's (Margit & Helmut) for a typically authentic Austrian meal of beef knoodle. Delish!
DAY EIGHT

Another early start to catch the train to Vienna, where we found our hotel easily in the museum quarter and were pleased to find two large towels EACH! Not to mention the chandelier in the bedroom, did this serve to justify why this was our most expensive hotel yet? Bath and toilet of strange shelf-type construction (inherited from the Dutch perhaps)....this is going to be interesting! Freshened up, if at all possible in the 30 degree heat and set off for Belvedere Palace while Riana checked out the museums. Saw a lot of Klimt paintings which I thought were the originals, but Pete tells me otherwise!
Then went to the Prater for a ride on the 'new'

ferris wheel. I felt that the old one (which is more famous) looked a bit dodgy as it was going so slowly. Lots of other scream-worthy rides around, but I wasn't up for that. Treated myself to Starbucks on the way back to the hotel and then collapsed on the bed.

DAY NINE

Early start again, breakfast the usual croissants with cheese and ham. Took a trip with shuttle bus to Wachau in the Danube valley. A leisurely 2 hour boat cruise took us to the Benedictine Abby at Melk, a pearl of Austrian Baroque architecture. I have to say that this was one of my top highlights of the two weeks. The Abby itself was vast and exquisitely decorated with an amazing library with century old books and a wonderfully ornate spiral staircase leading down into the cathedral. Accompanied by stunning gardens and a pavilion with impressive frescoes. The perfect time of year to be visiting whilst apricot liqueur and schnapps is never in short supply there!

DAY TEN

Both decided that the chandelier looks pretty dodgy and may fall on our heads at any minute! Got up with haste to get to Sudbahnhof (main train station) to buy our train tickets to Bratislava. Trains are a bit more expensive in Austria but still cheaper than England! Went with Riana to see the work place of Sigmond Freud before he and the family fled for England in 1938. There we are a piece of history for you! Lots of comical pen drawings in the gallery poking fun at psychiatrists. Then I went off in search of a Renaissance courtyard while Riana headed for the Albertina museum. Only for me to find it was under renovation and billowing in a cloud of dust to my disgust! So did a quick U-turn and headed for the Schloss Schonbrunn in which I took the grand tour of the rooms. Mostly decorated in highly elaborate Roccoco style with lots of Chinese lacquered inlays covering the walls. Gardens also very impressive with several fountain sculptures and massive hedge mazes. In the evening Riana & I met up with Marcus, (friend of Suzanne) who introduced us to an authentic Viennese wine bar. Our most adventurous night out of the whole trip!

DAY ELEVEN

Set off for Bratislava early in the morning & left hotel without any breaki! Had to go through passport control on arrival at station. All that palaver and no stamps - despicable! Decided to get our train tickets for Krakow at the same time, which was quite a lot of hassle as no one seemed to speak much English other than a crafty guy with 'selective information' trying to sell us tourist maps. What a load of crock when you can get them at the tourist info for free. I mean everybody knows that, surely? Took our first taxi ride as we had no idea where we were going but got taken to the wrong hotel on the opposite side of town amongst a mass of high rise buildings. Knew for sure this couldn't be right and discovered she had read the name of the hotel as City 'Hotel' instead of City 'Hostel'!

Anyway we got there in the end and were pleased to find another excellent room with two LARGE towels! Went for a traditional beef goulash lunch with dumplings. Ordered fresh orange, and I swear they must have juiced the whole orange, skin and all, cause I've never tasted anything so bitter in my life. Was pretty similar to 'Why Bite', you know that stuff your mum (or sister!) used to put on your nails to stop you biting them.

Set off for a tour of the castle which had mostly newly erected exhibitions on display, no original fittings and still under restoration. Sneaked behind city tour guides to eavesdrop on the dialogue! Took a leisurely stroll round the old town for the rest of the day. If any of you ever decide to go to Bratislava, just make it an overnight stop as this is enough to see the whole of the old town! Not much else to see except the museum of clocks (narrowest building in the town) and the blue church, which is well...BLUE! Had an awesome fillet steak that evening with some great wine; 100ml to be exact! Yes, they charge you for each and every top up and its measured exactly - No spillage there then!
DAY TWELVE

Had breakfast in the town square and then got packed up for our next long train journey. Had by now moved onto Series 4 of the No 1 Ladies Detective Agency. Met a group of Irish lads from Galway in the reception of the hotel who were inter-railing round Europe and it turned out two of them were heading in our direction. So we met them at the station, but the train was so packed we didn't managed to get a carriage together. They probably would have slept through the journey anyway and they had had a heavy session at the Irish pub the night before! Arrived in Krakow late at night to find our attic room really stuffy so we opened the windows to let the air flow through. Room impressively posh; towels, dressing table, TV you name it, we were spoilt rotten! Literally collapsed in bed straight away, only to wake up in the middle of a thunderstorm with rain streaming through the horizontal windows. One way to cool down I guess!

DAY THIRTEEN

Got up at a more respectable hour and went in search of tours to Auschwitz. Booked tickets for an afternoon tour and then went our separate ways around the town square after breakfast. Visited Wawel Hill Royal Palace and Cathedral. You guessed it....MORE steps! Just couldn't resist! View not as good as some of the others, but came face to face with a few impressive bells, fortunately not ringing at the time. More impressive was the exhibition of armoury and oriental art. Started to rain so took cover for lunch and then met Riana at the Auschwitz tour pick up point. A long drive accompanied by a TV documentary & 67km later and we were at Auschwitz Camp 1. Had an extensive tour with a very knowledgeable English-speaking guide. Then went a further 3km on to Birkenau (Auschwitz Camp 2). Some of the exhibits were really shocking and the scale of the operation that went on at Birkenau was inconceivable. Bought a book written by a Polish Jew survivor which I finished on the next train journey it was so gripping. It even overtook the No 1 Ladies Detective Agency so it must have been quite a read!

DAY FOURTEEN

Second last day of trip and feeling knackered so didn't bother getting out of bed as it was also raining buckets by now. Caught our train to Prague or at least one third of the way until our train carriage was hit by a falling tree which broke the line. Fortunately a friendly Czech man in our cabin spoke really good English and told us he was also heading for Prague and would find out if there was another route available as we were going to miss our connection. We spent the rest of the journey being given a thorough history lesson on Hitler, old Bohemia, politics and the formation of the Bata shoe company no less! All ended well and we arrived in Prague before midnight which was actually an improvement on our initial arrival on day one. Hotel didn't seem too bothered....makes no difference to towel size!

DAY FIFTEEN

Last day spent in Prague generally relaxing a bit more and enjoying the sights, stopping here and there to pick up a few last minute souveniers, including my much prized Mucha puzzle. A visit to the decorative arts museum which had an even bigger clock exhibition and a display of clothing dating back to the 15th century, very interesting but I think I was on information overload by that stage! Met Riana back at the hotel and set off for the airport bus. We had to laugh when a group of English tourists, waiting to board the bus, got on without tickets and promptly got thrown off. Well we were glad to be headed home with our heads filled with history and amazing visuals as well as a fair few memory cards full of pictures. THE END!